If you have switched to an induction hob and some of your pans no longer heat up, nothing is broken. Induction only works with cookware that contains magnetic iron, and much of what people already own does not qualify. This guide shows you how to test what you have in seconds, why certain materials fail, and what to look for when buying so you never bring home a pan that will not work.
How induction actually heats a pan
A gas or electric hob heats the surface, and the pan sits on top of that heat. Induction is different. A coil under the glass creates a magnetic field, and that field generates heat directly inside the base of the pan. The hob surface stays relatively cool; the pan becomes the heat source.
This is why the material matters so much. If the pan’s base is not magnetic, the field passes through it and no heat is produced. That single fact explains every compatibility problem people run into.
The magnet test
You do not need any special equipment. Take a fridge magnet and hold it against the bottom of any pot or pan. If it clamps on firmly, the pan will work on induction. If it barely holds or falls off, it will not, or will heat poorly. Do this with every pan before you assume you need to replace it.
Which materials work and which do not
The pattern is straightforward once you know it.
| Material | Works on induction? |
| Cast iron (bare or enamelled) | Yes, excellent |
| Magnetic stainless steel | Yes, if the base is magnetic |
| Carbon steel | Yes |
| Plain aluminium | No |
| Copper | No, unless it has a magnetic base |
| Glass and ceramic | No |
Stainless steel is the confusing one. Not all stainless is magnetic; it depends on the grade and how the base is built. Many quality stainless pans have a magnetic layer bonded into the base specifically for induction, while cheaper or older ones may not. This is exactly why the magnet test beats guessing from the label.
What to look for when buying
When shopping, the reliable signal is the induction symbol, a small coil-shaped icon that looks like a horizontal zig-zag or coil, usually printed on the base or the box. Manufacturers only add it when the pan is genuinely compatible.
Beyond compatibility, look at the base itself. A thick, flat, fully clad base heats evenly and makes good contact with the glass. A thin or slightly warped base can heat unevenly or buzz. Flatness matters more on induction than on gas, because contact with the surface is everything.
A real example: the mixed cupboard
Imagine you move into a flat with an induction hob and a cupboard of inherited pans. You run the magnet test across all of them. The cast iron skillet grips hard, so it stays. The heavy stainless pot grips, so it stays too. The lightweight aluminium saucepan and the pretty copper pot both fail. Rather than replacing everything, you have now identified exactly which two pans to buy: a saucepan and a frying pan with the induction symbol. That is a far cheaper outcome than assuming the whole set is useless.
Common mistakes and how to fix them
Assuming stainless steel always works. Some grades are non-magnetic. Fix: test with a magnet, do not trust the material name alone.
Using a warped or too-small pan. Poor contact causes buzzing, slow heating or the hob not detecting the pan. Fix: match pan diameter to the cooking zone and choose flat bases.
Buying an induction adapter plate as a permanent fix. These metal discs let a non-magnetic pan work, but they waste energy and heat slowly. Fix: use them only occasionally, not for daily cooking.
Sliding heavy pans across the glass. Cast iron scratches the surface. Fix: lift, never drag.
Ignoring a persistent buzz. Some noise is normal, but loud rattling often means a light or uneven base. Fix: switch to a heavier, flatter pan.
Buying checklist
- Magnet grips the base firmly.
- Induction coil symbol on the base or packaging.
- Thick, flat, fully clad base.
- Diameter matches your hob’s cooking zones.
- Comfortable weight you can lift, since dragging scratches the glass.
Compatibility on induction is a solved problem once you carry a magnet. Your next step: take a fridge magnet to your cupboard today, sort your pans into works and does-not-work, and you will know precisely what, if anything, you need to buy.
Frequently asked questions
Can I make my old aluminium pans work on induction?
Only with an induction adapter plate, a magnetic disc that sits between the hob and the pan. It works but heats slowly and less efficiently, so it is best kept for occasional use rather than everyday cooking.
Why does my induction-compatible pan still buzz?
A faint hum is normal, especially at high power. Louder buzzing usually comes from a thin or slightly uneven base vibrating in the magnetic field. A heavier, flatter pan is quieter.
Does the pan need to be a specific size?
It should roughly match the cooking zone. A pan much smaller than the zone may not be detected at all, since the hob needs enough magnetic base over the coil to register.
Is induction cookware different from normal cookware?
Not fundamentally. It is ordinary cookware that happens to have a magnetic base. Cast iron and much stainless steel already qualify, so induction-ready simply means the maker has confirmed compatibility.
Will cast iron damage my glass induction surface?
Only if you drag it. The rough base can scratch the glass, so always lift the pan to move it. Placed gently, cast iron is one of the best performers on induction.